Before I begin, a note: I keep thinking I’ll write these updates more frequently, but it seems I need to be in a particular mood to do so. Today, I’m forcing myself into said mood because I know I need to get the details of our experiences down before I forget them. So, in advance, I apologize if my wordsmithing at all comes across as seemingly uninspired.

Now, let’s begin.

Two weeks after our first German vacation to a family resort that was very much an authentic non-touristy German experience, we set off on our next adventure. Since we made the choice to spend our summer travels within the borders of Germany to avoid any complications with COVID restrictions, it was an easy choice to visit the Alpine region of the country. I’ve been dying to get to the mountains, and at a quick 5-hour road trip with no borders to cross it seemed easily achievable for our first time out on our own.

We decided to stay in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, at the base of the German Alps. For those of us Americans here, there is a hotel called Edelweiss Lodge that is only for American military members and DOD personnel living or visiting in Germany. Typically, I would want to stay somewhere more immersive in the culture, but for $100 a night (fee is based on husband’s pay grade as a member of the Coast Guard Reserves) it was hard to pass up on the quality and comfort we’d receive for such a price. Not only that, but as everyone working in the lodge speaks English, sometimes traveling without a language barrier makes things all the more relaxing. Another small thing that made me happy, the beds are American-sized and include top sheets and one big comforter over the entire bed for two people to share. In European hotels it’s typical to have two twin beds pushed together, no top sheet, and a small down comforter for each individual person. There’s something to me about the larger comforter for two people to share that seems cozy, and the weight of the blanket anchors itself around me better. Although, since I tend to hog the covers, my husband probably has a very different appreciation for the individually-sized comforters of the European beds.

We left our house about 6am and arrived in Garmisch at 12. The trip was uneventful and beautiful. The gas stations and rest stops have incredibly clean bathrooms, even the ones you didn’t have to pay to use, and I will be forever grateful to Germany for their preference for sanitary toilet conditions. Upon arriving at the hotel we were actually able to check in early and that made my day. It’s nice to not have to drive around sightseeing with loads of crap in your car. We checked in on a Sunday and the hotel was practically empty since everyone had already checked out earlier that morning. The hotel was also only allowed 50% capacity due to COVID so that made it seem all the quieter. I could get used to this COVID Conditions life!

Every room has a balcony with a beautiful view of the surrounding area.

Initially the plan was to take the cable car (Seilbahn) to the top of the Zugspitze the afternoon we arrived, but the Alpine Adventures team (basically, the Concierge) suggested we see the Zugspitze in the morning when it isn’t as busy. So we settled on hiking the Partnachklamm Gorge that afternoon.

After changing into some comfortable hiking clothes and footwear we headed off to hike the Gorge. We had a general idea of where to park but quickly realized the lot was completely full and we were left to drive around aimlessly to find street parking. After a few minutes we found a suitable spot, in the shade even, and began our walk to the start of the Gorge.

One of the features along the way was the Ski Stadium commissioned for the 1936 winter olympics. So interesting to see a giant ski slope in person and to think about the person who actually willingly skis down and jumps off that ramp. Apparently the ski slope/jump is still used by training professional skiers.

We walked through the Ski Stadion (stadium) to get to the start of the Partnachklamm Gorge hike. We had to walk up the hill in order to reach the top, buy our tickets (zwei Erwachsene und ein Kind - 2 adults, 1 child), and then walk down into the gorge. It was incredible. Probably one of the neatest mountain hikes I’ve ever done. The trail cut through the rock walls and walked along the edge of the rushing river that is currently carving this amazing landscape. The walls oozed water and the misty air smelled wet and fresh. The sound was powerful and deafening, and we could barely hear each other talk over the roar of the very full river. The color of the water was a light turquoise, clear and fresh from the nearby mountains. It was so beautiful. Grant LOVED the experience and I was very glad we could share with him such a unique mountain scape.

Because of COVID we had to wear our masks while walking in the Gorge, and we also could only walk in a single direction. What would normally be a one-hour walk to complete the entire gorge and back, turned into a 3+ hour hike to get through the gorge, back up one side of the mountain, and down the other to the start of the hike at the Ski Stadion. The trail meandered up the mountainside, nearly vertical in places, or so it felt. We were huffing and puffing along the way. We must have taken a wrong turn at some point, along with several other people who did the same, because after an hour of straight uphill hiking we all stopped to catch our breath and scratch our heads at the signs that were telling us to now walk back the way we had come. In my head I wondered if someone had relocated signs to play a joke on us all. But, we eventually left the pack and chose a different path from the others … one that I saw would lead us to blue and white umbrellas. And in Germany, and especially Bavaria, blue and white umbrellas signal only one thing. A BIERGARTEN!

We wandered along the grassy meadow trail to the biergarten and restaurant and waited for our turn to be seated. We enjoyed the break, with the surrounding view of the gorgeous Alps, sipping on our biers and Grant his Apfelschorle, which is a mixture of apple juice and sparkling water. We really wanted food but they only took cash. As our cash supply was nearing its emptiness we prioritized liquid fuel. It gave us the rest and energy to continue on our walk. While sitting at our table we noticed a sign saying “Ski Stadion - 30 mins” with an arrow pointing where we needed to go. It was a gift from the universe.

After another 30-40 minutes of walking we finally made it down the mountain, past the ski stadion, and to our car. We were beyond happy to find it still in the shade.

That night for dinner we ate at the hotel for convenience, but the special of the night was a pastry pocket stuffed with Sloppy Joe mix and a side of fried potatoes loaded with pulled pork, bacon, chives, cheese and sour cream. It. Was. So. Good. Grant discovered Ham and Cheese Croissants and now has a new food he happily added to his approved menu. I’m always glad when that list expands a little!

A delicious dinner with a view after a 10-mile hike. The perfect end to the day’s adventure.

I highly recommend the trip to Partnachklamm Gorge when you travel to the Garmisch area. It was incredible and thanks to the artistic ways of Mother Nature, it will look different every time you go. They do tours in the winter as well as the waterfalls freeze over. Since we are returning to Garmisch shortly after Christmas for ski season, I’m hoping we can squeeze in a winter hike through the gorge, too.

Thanks for coming along with us! Up next: The Zugpitze! (The highest peak in Germany)

Behind the Lens:

Featured Posts:

Garmisch Day 1: Partnachklamm Gorge Hike